How to bond rabbits – and why companionship is so important

Why rabbits need a rabbit friend

Just like wild rabbits, pet rabbits need a friend – to snuggle on cold nights, groom or get comfort from when they’re scared.

Human companionship is not enough. We cannot be with them around the clock or communicate with them as another rabbit can.

Many rabbits who live on their own will display behaviours that show they’re unhappy and stressed.

These include:

• hiding away, ‘being lazy’ and showing little interest in their environment
• sitting huddled in a corner or in a hide
• being very still with their nose twitching fast when they’re handled
• screaming when they’re handled
• attacking their owner, grunting, boxing and biting when the owner is in their territory
• showing destructive behaviour in their accommodation.

So, rabbits should always be kept in pairs or groups to make sure they’re happy and healthy.

If you have a single rabbit of any age, contact Woodgreen or your local rescue centre to find your rabbit a companion.

How to house your rabbits

You’ll need to provide your rabbits with a spacious enclosure that allows them enough room to display natural behaviours. It should also include enough resources for each rabbit. A 3m long x 2m wide x 1m high enclosure could house two small to medium-sized rabbits.

Find out more about how to house your rabbits in our article.

What kinds of rabbit can live together?

• A neutered male and neutered female rabbit can happily live together.
• Same-sex pairs or siblings can work, but it’s important they’re neutered as early as possible – ideally between three and six months. This helps to prevent potentially fatal fights as they mature. If your rabbits have started fighting, neutering them and slowly introducing them back together may resolve it. But, often the rabbits are unable to move on from disliking each other.
• Different breeds of rabbit can live together if they bond well – but take care with a giant and a smaller breed. Many mismatched-size pairings work, but there’s always a risk to the smaller rabbit during the mixing process.

Can rabbits live with other animals?

The best companion for your rabbit in their enclosure is another rabbit.

A rabbit and a guinea pig should not live together. Some owners find that a rabbit and guinea pig seem to be happy in this setup. But there’s a big risk that the guinea pig will be accidentally kicked when the rabbit is hopping about. Guinea pigs are also vocal communicators, while rabbits are mostly silent. This can be upsetting for both the rabbit and guinea pig.

Rabbits and birds should not live together. Both species need very different diets and housing. They communicate in very different ways too. Rabbits are naturally very quiet, whereas birds chatter to one another constantly. Also, as rabbits are grazers, they eat a lot of food from ground level. So it can be difficult to prevent their food being contaminated by bird droppings. This can then lead to the spread of diseases.

Introducing your rabbits to each other

Introducing rabbits to one another can take a lot of time and effort – more than you might think! Our guide below will help you find the right way to mix your rabbits, whilst helping to minimise stress and the chance of injury.

If you find yourself with a lone rabbit, please contact Woodgreen – we may be able to help! We have an onsite mixing service where we can help you find a companion for your rabbit. We can either mix them onsite or give you advice on how to mix them at home.

Getting ready to mix rabbits

Introducing rabbits to a new companion can be tricky. There’s no guarantee your rabbit will get along with the first or even second rabbit you try. So be prepared to persevere!

Make sure both rabbits are neutered

Neutering your rabbits will not only prevent unwanted litters, but also help them bond. Hormones can make unneutered rabbits very territorial. If one or both rabbits are not neutered, they will often fight quite aggressively when they’re mature.

You should give both rabbits time to fully recover from neutering and be in good health before you start the bonding. A rabbit-friendly vet can tell you how long you should wait after their operations. It will be a few weeks to give the hormones a chance to settle and for the rabbits to fully heal.

Split mixing

This is when you divide a large space or enclosure with wire mesh down the middle, placing one rabbit on either side. Starting off with this method can sometimes help rabbits who have had multiple failed mixes. It gives them time to get used to one another safely through a divide, before you introduce them in one neutral space.

It’s important to know there’s still a risk they will not get along when introduced to one another in the same pen, even if positive behaviours have been seen through the divide. Here’s how to do it:

• Divide a large space with wire mesh so the rabbits can live side by side for a couple of weeks or more.
• Make sure the divide is at least 3ft high – taller for rabbits who can jump higher than that.
• You can double up the divide with a small gap between each piece of mesh so the rabbits can’t nip one another. Then you can remove one of the divides later, so there’s a single divide – if the rabbits seem calm and relaxed with each other.
• Leave the rabbits to settle for a few days and get used to another rabbit being close by. Then start to swap some of their enrichment every day. The best items to swap are litter trays and any items or toys they use frequently. There will be more of each rabbit’s scent on them for the other rabbit to get used to when it’s in their part of the pen.
• Put some of their litter trays, food and water near the divide to encourage them to sit near one another in a calm and relaxed state. If the rabbits start, for example, grunting or trying to bite one another after their settling-in period, stop the split mix and try a different method.
• Don’t put any tall enrichment items next to the divide in case the rabbits use them to jump over it.

Once the rabbits have been split mixed for at least a couple of weeks (or more), you can try mixing them in a neutral space. Positive signs which indicate you can move ahead with this include showing interest in one another, not seeming bothered by one another, lying close together on each side of the divide, and grooming one another. You can use the smaller space or larger space mixing method.

Choosing the right space for introductions

When introducing rabbits, it’s very important you do it on neutral territory that does not have the smell of either rabbit.

A shed, run or indoor room can work well as a mixing space. Your chosen area should:

• be safe from predators
• not be somewhere you use regularly, like a bathroom or kitchen, so you won’t disturb the rabbits
• be uninterrupted for at least a week while your rabbits build a bond.

You can set up a neutral mixing space by:

• deep cleaning their existing accommodation or the ‘split mixing’ area with a pet-friendly disinfectant
• moving the run onto a new patch of grass or onto concrete
• using a spare room or shed that neither rabbit has been in before.

Choose your mixing method

There are various ways to mix rabbits. We recommend the following methods – we use them in our mixing service here at Woodgreen.

The ‘smaller space’ method

This method involves mixing rabbits in a space much smaller than their normal enclosure. Using a metal, panelled pen can work well for this. This is because you can gradually increase the size of the pen as the bond progresses. Here are a few tips:

• If the space has a tiled or slippery floor, cover it with large towels or blankets. Then place the pen on top so it won’t move around.
• Cover the floor that’s inside the pen with newspaper so it’s easy to clean. Then put lots of hay on top.
• Scatter the rabbits’ nugget food and any tasty forage or greens around the floor.
• Attach a couple of water bottles to the pen. Or you can place a large ceramic bowl of water in the pen. But it’s best to do this after any initial chasing between the rabbits has calmed down, so you don’t get lots of spilled water and wet rabbits!
• Don’t put any litter trays, hiding spaces or enrichment in the pen initially. This is to stop the rabbits becoming territorial.

The ‘larger space’ method

This method involves using a space that is just slightly smaller than their normal enclosure. You can use a metal pen or panels to section off a large area in their disinfected enclosure or another neutral, predator-proof space. Here are some tips:

• If the space has a tiled or slippery floor, place some non-slip rugs or mats around the space so the rabbits won’t slip and hurt themselves. Non-slip bathmats work well for this.
• Add several large piles of hay with newspaper underneath to help with easy cleaning, as the rabbits will most likely toilet in these areas. Or, you can put three to four clean, rectangular open litter trays full of newspaper with hay on top around the space. There should be at least one litter tray or pile of hay per rabbit, plus at least one extra.
• Scatter their nugget food and any tasty forage or greens around the floor.
• Place a couple of clean ceramic water bowls or bottles in the space.
• Don’t use small enclosed spaces, hides, tunnels or small hutches, to avoid the rabbits becoming cornered and provoking a fight.

Starting the bonding process

Once you feel the rabbits and the space are ready, you can start the mix. It’s best to:

• do this when you can closely monitor them for several days – over a weekend works well
• start the mix in the morning so you have the whole day to monitor them
• have another person with you to help you monitor them – and separate them if needed.

Make sure you have a towel ready to step in and separate the rabbits if a serious fight starts. And always wear suitable footwear and clothing so you don’t get injured.

Never spray rabbits with water or make loud noises to stop negative behaviours. They won’t understand what’s happening and will get frightened.

How to introduce your rabbits to the mixing space

Place the rabbits down in the space at the exact same time. Then remove their carriers and step back to observe. If you’re using the smaller space method, stand outside the pen, a foot or so away, to give the rabbits more space to interact.

Don’t hover over them with a towel – it can intimidate them and stop them interacting with one another normally.

What to look out for in the early days

Signs your rabbits may not be suited

Hostility between two rabbits is obvious and dramatic. Signs can include:

• charging at each other with ears flat against the body
• actively seeking out the other rabbit and starting a fight; standing up and boxing each other
• biting each other’s backs, causing fur to fly everywhere
• kicking each other’s abdomens
• biting that results in high-pitched screams.

If you see these behaviours on the first day or the start of the second day, separate the rabbits immediately – the mix is unlikely to work.

Give both rabbits a full health check. Look for any fight wounds or injuries to their legs. Contact a rabbit-friendly vet if you’re concerned.

Signs it’s going well

Positive behaviour you expect to see in the first few hours to three days includes:

• chasing but quickly losing interest
• mounting (watch out for biting if this is on the face)
• gentle fur pulling – finding small tufts of fur is normal, but larger patches could mean there’s been a fight
• sitting grooming themselves
• grooming each other’s faces
• indifference when they walk past each other
• eating near or close to one another
• choosing to sit near one another.

By the end of day one, it’s common to see the rabbits sitting calmly at opposite ends of the accommodation, grooming themselves or feeding. This is an encouraging sign – your rabbits are relaxed in each other’s company.

Leaving them overnight

If the mix has gone well throughout the day, leave the rabbits in that space together overnight. If you separate them, you’ll need to start the mix from scratch the next morning, which will add more stress.

The next day, check the rabbits over thoroughly for any injuries that may have happened overnight. If you notice any signs of injury, contact your vet so they can have a closer look.

Good signs by day three

By day three, you will hopefully see your rabbits sitting close together and grooming each other. This shows their bond is building nicely.

What to do next

If you’re using the ‘smaller space’ method

Cleaning the space

On day two of the mix, avoid changing anything in the pen if possible. This will prevent any stress or changes in scent. Just add plenty of fresh hay into the pen and top up their water.

On day three of the mix, check the newspaper and hay and replace any that’s particularly wet and dirty. Keep as much of the used, clean hay in there as possible. This will have the scents of both rabbits and will help prevent any sudden changes in behaviour towards one another. Top up the hay and water as normal.

By day four, you should be able to start changing dirty newspaper and hay daily. Just make sure you always keep a good amount of the used, clean hay in the pen that will have both their scents on.

Increasing the size of the mixing space

Once the rabbits have been in the pen together for two or three days, you can start to increase the size of it – only if the rabbits are:

• spending more time close to one another
• looking comfortable with one another
• eating happily next to each other.

Start by making the pen one panel larger. Do this in the morning so you can monitor them initially. You may notice some chasing or mounting, but this should subside quite quickly. If it doesn’t subside and it worsens over the course of the day, go back to the original pen size and wait another couple of days before trying again.

After another day or two, increase the pen size by one panel again – in the same way. You can continue doing this until the pen has reached its maximum size.

Add litter trays and enrichment

You can then start adding litter trays – a minimum of three to begin with, to avoid either rabbit ‘claiming’ one.

At this time, you can also gradually add some enrichment with multiple entrances, like tunnels, chairs, stools or children’s plastic tables. Put a towel or blanket on top of any items the rabbits can jump on top of to give a bit of grip. This will help prevent them slipping off and hurting themselves.

Moving the rabbits out of the mixing space

If the rabbits stay settled, and there are no major changes in behaviour, you can move them into their normal enclosure. Make sure you’ve made it neutral by giving it a thorough clean. And take the hay and enrichment from their mixing space and scatter it around their enclosure to help them settle. They’ll be able to smell one another’s scent around the space.

If the mixing pen is significantly smaller than their normal enclosure, use the pen to section off an area at one end of their enclosure, similar in size to their mixing space. You can then gradually increase the space the rabbits have access to over a few days, before giving them full access to the whole enclosure.

Giving the rabbits too much space too quickly can lead to fighting and needing to be separated. It’s important to do it gradually.

See ‘Settling your rabbits in their usual enclosure’ further down for some more tips.

If you’re using the ‘larger space’ method

All being well, leave the rabbits in the mixing space for five to seven days. Or until their bond has developed and they’re spending more time close to one another.

Cleaning the space

During this time, clean any litter trays and areas that are particularly soiled, and remove any wet newspaper or hay. Leave any used but clean hay in the trays – it has both rabbits’ scents – then top up with fresh hay.

Adding some enrichment

Gradually add a few different enrichment items for them, like tunnels or small stools. Make sure any hiding spaces are open-ended or have multiple entrances. This will help prevent one rabbit being cornered or provoking a fight.

Moving the rabbits out of the mixing space

If all goes well with introducing the enrichment, you can move the rabbits into their normal enclosure.

Make sure you’ve made it neutral by giving it a thorough clean. And take the clean hay and enrichment from their mixing space and scatter it around the pen to help them settle. They’ll be able to smell one another’s scent in their new environment.

Settling your rabbits in their usual enclosure

Some rabbits’ enclosures have two or more separate but joined areas (like two runs, or a shed joined to a run via a tunnel). If you have one like this, introduce the newly bonded rabbits to one area first, and shut off the rest. This can help to prevent each rabbit from ‘claiming’ an area as its own and becoming territorial over it.

After a few days of the rabbits being in the space, you can start giving them access to the other areas of their enclosure. Have a look at our advice on free roaming below to help you do this gradually.

Once the rabbits have settled in their enclosure after a few days, you can gradually start to put more enrichment items in with them. Soon enough, they’ll have normal levels of enrichment, and they can start to really enjoy their new home!

Hold off on free roaming for a while

It’s best to avoid letting your rabbits free roam for at least a couple of weeks after they’re back in their permanent accommodation.

You can start letting them free roam the garden – or other areas of the house if they live indoors – gradually once they’ve settled back in. Too much space too soon can lead to fighting and you may have to separate the rabbits.

Start off with a few minutes of free roaming each day and monitor their behaviour when they go back into their enclosure. If you notice any unsettled behaviour, avoid free roaming for another few days to a week before trying again.

Once both rabbits seem at ease, you can gradually increase their free roaming time and build it back up to normal levels.

Find more detailed rabbit care advice in our expert guides.